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Sarah Painter | CHKV - Part 2
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Dragons, Snakes, Mopeds, and Roses – By Sarah Painter


We awake from our brief reprieve in order to take advantage of the free hotel breakfast whose non-negotiable close time is 10:00 a.m. Today would be our first official day in Vietnam. After our meal, we assemble in the hotel lobby as a group awaiting the instructions for the day. The plan would be to spend the first few hours scouring the city, exploring the market just down the street or heading to the French quarter to view some historic sites.

Initially, we were all market-bound to see what excitement was in store. Heading into the experience, I figured that I already knew how I’d feel. I understand that the purpose of such an area of commerce is to bargain for deals. But how, I thought, could I possibly come to a country that has such need and haggle to get a price down from cheap to nearly free, when I have such an abundance of resources? Surely I would need to be very generous.

Well, ladies and gentlemen, allow me to introduce you to the Cho Ben Thanh Market. The hustle is in full swing here, let me tell you.

Under the strict instructions of our group leads, we are encouraged to remain in at least a pairs and to protect our valuables. I branch off with my roommate Stasa to explore. I had quite of bit of money on hand and was prepared to shop ‘til I drop. However, in the mania of the market, I suddenly felt very intimidated. It is a truly a wild sight. Hot and humid like a pressure cooker, crowded with people and kiosks, workers in full denim jeans, socks and long-sleeved shirts serving giant vats of steaming hot soup. Never in my life have I seen such a place.



As we make our way through the crowded aisles, eager people at each little kiosk attempt to halt us, hoping to tantalize us with their merchandise and the promise of ‘best price for you’. I decide quickly that I had better hold off on purchasing for a few reasons:    

  • It is very difficult to determine what the price is in Canadian dollars as 16,000VND = $1CAD, so definitely lots of opportunities for screw ups
  • I am easily pressured in situations that involve math that I can’t figure out on the spot
  • I’m not always sure what people are saying to me
  • I’m suspicious that I may not always be getting the actual ‘best priceI have already been bamboozled into paying $30USD above our group rate by a very persuasive hotel staff member this morning so my confidence is low


Essentially, I felt very exposed walking through the market; like a fool prime for the taking. I figured I better wait until next time.    



This is maybe the difference of the market that I hadn’t anticipated. Bargaining here is less about trying to take advantage of someone less fortunate, and more about trying not to get taken advantage of. Certainly the market kiosk owners are after the best price for their merchandise. And why wouldn’t they be? I decided that overall, I need to return to this place with less of a bleeding heart and more cunning related to currency conversion and bargaining tactics.

Meanwhile, Brent, Hareishun and Stephanie decided to go for a hunt for history and adventure. They walked through the French quarter and past the Notre Dame Cathedral.  After wandering the streets, they arrived at their targeted destination – the Pho Binh Noodle House.  It seemed like a humble spot that could easily be missed, but was mentioned in Lonely Planet, prompting their journey.

The noodle house was the secret meeting place for the Vietnamese Communist Party where the revolution was planned in 1968.  The upper level is a museum dedicated to the men who gave their lives during the revolution and the men who planned the revolution.  The noodle house is still owned by a family member affiliated with the revolution.

From there they quickly walked back towards the hotel.  During their journey, they got to walk past Independence Hall where the prime minister lived prior to being conquered by the Communist Party. A very busy couple of hours considering they were on foot the entire time, dodging unyielding mopeds while covering serious distance.

The entire group returns to the hotel and boards the bus to head to the Binh Quoi Tourist Village. Unbeknownst to us at the time, we are embarking on more of an adventure than we thought. This park area is a luscious green space with flowers, exotic trees, and activities for all.


We climbed bridges made of skinny sticks over green ponds that definitely would not be allowed in Canada…

Enjoyed sugar cane drinks…




Swung with friends…

Spent time in beautiful little huts around the pond…

Even had little naps…

The Vietnamese folks sure enjoyed taking Brent and Harieshun’s picture while they slept.
Now luckily for us, this afternoon in the park was about to turn into a full-fledged celebration. Occasionally on weekends and then on New Year’s – which had just passed – for the low price of 27000 VND you can tour around a 70 station buffet of Vietnamese cuisine enjoyed in a seated area in the park.


It was fabulous. Incredible, authentic Vietnamese food everywhere you turned. It even included some delicacy dishes such as Ot (snails) and Hot Vit Lon (half hatched duck eggs).

Here is Christian enjoying both!
Much to our surprise, the evening didn’t finish here…

A traditional dance with dragons began. It was an amazing spectacle of acrobatics and thermodynamics (for the guys inside the costumes).

Dancing together…
And dancing on a fairly precarious table-stage…
 

Children and adults offer the dragons money in red envelopes by feeding them, which in turn grants a new year filled with good fortune and prosperity.   

Even little Sébastien was brave enough to feed a dragon!

And the party continued until the show was over!


And by the time we arrived at the end of our evening, everyone was completely exhausted and ready for bed.

Except for the guys who napped in the park. They enjoyed the Saturday night lights on the roof top of the hotel with a cold beer in hand.
 ****
We awoke refreshed the next morning with a day of travel ahead. Many of us had opted for an early bedtime complete with a lazy morning and breakfast at a medium pace. But not our fearless and motivated trio: Steph, Brent, and Hareishun! Off they went for an early morning tourist run.  They jogged through the French quarter, saw the psychedelic helipad and dance club (still not certain who gets to land there – it’s a hell of a way to make an entrance to a night club).  Along the Saigon River they traveled to see the abundance of boat traffic.  During the trip back, they spotted the US Embassy, which is heavily surrounded with parking/safety pylons/barricades to avoid approaching with a car.  It is in the same location as it was in the 1960s.  Unfortunately, they weren’t able to get a view as it is still surrounded by high walls with barbed wire.  Their early morning jump-start capped-off perfectly with iced coffee at the local market. The early bird sure catches the worm!

Our team reassembled and we started our journey to take us to Long Xuyen, where our teaching symposium would be held.

We managed to track down another friend on our way out of Ho Chi Minh City.

Please welcome Dr. Dave Easton – Adult Intensivist.

After a couple of hours of driving we made a little pit stop… at the most restful and relaxing location possible…

The Snake Farm!!

This unusual and interesting attraction boasts numerous snakes in a variety of areas, as well as a zoo-type experience complete with animals native to the area, as well as animals that are native to other countries (like deer, wolverines, bears with huge amounts of hair). I’m not totally sure how some of these guys found their way here.

I admit that I stopped taking pictures after being pooped on – not once but two times within fifteen minutes. I’m quite sure it was at the hands of a dainty little bird in the trees. That being said, I’m really not into anonymous bomb-drops of unidentified Vietnamese birds. Everyone keeps telling me it’s lucky. I remain unconvinced.

Following an hour spent taking in the marvels of the snake farm in the baking hot sun made the group crave one thing, and one thing only – HOT SOUP FOR LUNCH!

We file back into the bus for the long road to Long Xuyen. You would think that leaving a major city and driving to another site would thin the traffic. The city centres have incredibly thick volumes of moped traffic, steady at all hours. Weaving in and out – every nook and cranny that can narrowly accommodate their dimensions – they are there. A manic tapestry of little horns and big horns used as constant communication of your location and intentions. You would think that this would be less and less so as you leave a city centre. I was fascinated that it is more of a constant state. All the way to Long Xuyen the bus rumbled along registering approximately 1-2 beeps of horn every 1-2 seconds, politely encouraging the little mopeds to give way.

Perhaps my favourite part of the day was loading our bus on to the ferry. There were three dense, slow-moving lines that lead to the two-dock ferry loading area. Thankfully, our group “knows somebody who knows somebody who knows somebody” and we got into the fastest moving line.

Our giant bus lumbered its way onto the tiny little ferry and we were (as always) surrounded by dozens of tiny mopeds, carrying anywhere from 1-5 people.


 
We had the good fortune of watching the sun setting over the water on our brief and exotic ferry ride.

We arrive at our final destination at approximately 7:00 p.m. We have new friends waiting for us at the hotel. Please welcome:

Dr. Joanna Webb – Family Medicine Physician; Dr. Aaron Webb – Emergency Resident; and their son, Louie.


Weary and stiff from our lengthy road travels, we disembark the bus to a beautiful, thoughtful, Valentine’s Day surprise…

Dr. Rang Nguyen (pictured above) and Dr. Trung Pham and his team awaiting our arrival, with beautiful, single red roses in hand for each of us.

I suddenly have a moment of realization.

Over the past couple of days, we have grown as a group and enjoyed so much fun together. Today marked a change in our story as we have arrived at the city where we will begin our symposium. This is our purpose for coming here, but it becomes so easy to fall into a certain frame. I felt reluctance for the following day. We would be working. I am nervous as I have never taught non-English speaking people in a foreign country. I had slowly started to change my focus over the past couple of days, thinking more about myself and my own comfort… unconsciously and without recognition.

Stepping off the bus and being met by a group of smiling, excited, and grateful physicians and team members put everything into perspective. This is what I had come here for. Although I was on the brink of doing something that I had never done before and was plagued by the uncertainty of exiting my comfort zone, the force that was even stronger was the realization that this act was one of meaning. We have arrived to assist health care providers in a developing country learn how to help more people in new ways. As much as this is a mission of challenge, it is also a mission of hope and possibility. This beautiful Valentine’s Day gesture is a reminder of the incredible bonds that can be created when we transcend our own personal barriers to make meaningful connections with people from other walks of life.

I held my precious red rose in my hand and watched as our group intertwined with theirs.
This is the start of something big.

I can feel it.
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The CHKV Amazing Race – By Sarah Painter



The day had finally arrived and a tired but excited group of friends, old and new, gathered at the Richardson Airport at 4:30 a.m. What is even more impressive than our ability to adhere to such an early morning start was the number of pieces of luggage in tow, each person carrying one bag with our personal belongings and another filled with medical equipment needed for our symposium. The months leading up to this day had been busy back and forth compiling a list with the necessary equipment for our mission under the careful coordination of Chau Pham, who is our team lead. The week before our departure, it was determined how we could package these items and who would take which suitcase. Now our team members had assembled at the airport planning to cross international borders with suitcases containing airway heads, ultrasounds, cardiac monitors, and pelvic manikins for simulated childbirth – all very exciting things to explain to customs officers once we arrive. As we checked our bags, Chau flew from counter to counter, ensuring there were no issues with our check-in and applying a generous number of ‘fragile’ stickers to ensure gentle handling of our precious cargo.

We successfully check in and pass through security. Before our first leg of the race – Winnipeg to Vancouver – we caffeinate appropriately and gather for the first group picture of our journey.



And maybe this is a good time to introduce our team!
From left to right:
Tieng Pham – Father of Chau Pham
Darlene Lindsay – Mission Coordinator, Mother of Chau Pham
Thu Pham – Mission Coordinator, Mother of Chau Pham
Sébastien La Rivière – son of Chau and Christian La Rivière (CLR)
Dr. Chau Pham – Emergency Physician, Team Lead
Dr. Christian La Rivière – Emergency, Palliaitve Care Physcian
Gabriel La Rivière – son of Chau and CLR
Dr. Stephanie Johnston – Obstetrician
Dr. Lisa Bryski – Emergency Physician
Dr. Anne Sutherland – Emergency Resident
Brent Bekiaris – Advanced Care Paramedic STARS
(me) Sarah Painter – Registered Nurse STARS, Children’s ER
Dr. Stasa Veroukis – Pediatric Intensivist
Now please keep in mind that this is not even the whole team! There will be new friends joining us over the next few days whom I will introduce as they arrive.

Our 30-hour odyssey begins as we board the plane and head to the west coast. The first part of this trip is the shortest. It seems bizarre to me that the flight to Vancouver normally seems very lengthy when I’m just traveling within Canada. However, on this morning, it is a 2.5-hour portion of our total journey. I know that it is a lay-up compared to what lies ahead.

As our plane arrives at our destination, I observe our Canadian custom of disembarking the flight row by row with calmness and due procedure. I find myself thinking that this is the last airplane that I will leave in this manner until I return back home.

After arriving in Vancouver, we assemble at our next gate and await the flight to Hong Kong airport.

And we pick up a new friend.

Ladies and Gentlemen – please welcome Dr. Hareishun Shanmuganathan – Emergency Paediatrics Physician    

And off we go to Hong Kong! Just a brief 13-hour flight. Very straight forward.  An interesting blend of needing to sleep, hoping to begin to adjust to the massive time change, eating sodium-rich airline food, trying to avoid significant water intake in order to prevent excessive disruptions to neighbours, and ongoing concern about DVTs and PEs. Man does time ever fly when you’re having fun.

Once safely arrived at our destination, we have a few hours to enjoy the Hong Kong airport – an impressive structure with shopping, restaurants, and fun for all. Our group disperses for a short time as we tend to our own individual needs. I already knew what I would be doing long before arriving.

In Hong Kong, weary travelers are able to pay money for the gift of a shower. This was a tip that I had picked up on my way to Australia a couple of years ago. “A luxury once enjoyed becomes necessity” I believe the saying goes. After more than 24 hours of transit time, I felt it was absolutely necessary to pursue. Stephanie agrees that she too is interested in the life-changing properties of a shower and we charge through the airport searching for this Holy Grail. We locate the Plaza Premium Plus area with the grand hopes of rejuvenation before us. Indeed, they still offered this service. The menu states a cost of $200 HK. I ask the man at the counter how many US dollars that would be. He thinks about it quite a bit and replies $20. We all agree that this is a fair price, but he is now motioning to another woman who seems to work here. I lean over to Steph and mention that $20 is probably the maximum that I’d pay for such luxury. Any more than that and I’d feel it’s not worth it. The woman approaches the counter and corrects the price – it is actually $27USD. Damn it. But I couldn’t bear to part with my dream. I had already imagined myself there in my mind. We both pay the fee and head to our lovely little private bathroom. Money is no object when your destiny is on the line.

Ladies and Gentlemen, a $27 USD shower in the Hong Kong Airport features the following benefits: 

  • Being alone for an entire 30-45 minutes
  • An exquisite rain shower head
  • Toiletries including a comb, single use toothbrush, soap, and shampoo
  • Fresh towels
  • A bottle of water
  • Sanity

Do you remember those Herbal Essences commercials from back in the day?


Yeah that was basically me.

After our rejuvenating showers, we found a restaurant and capped off the experience with a curry noodle soup. Level of relaxation: maximum.



Our final leg of the race was a relatively short zip over to Ho Chi Minh City, a total of 2.5 hours. Compared to the last flight, this was a slam-dunk for our group.


Let’s hear it for our traveling babes!! I nominate them as MVPs!

             

We arrive in Vietnam with luck on our side, as all luggage has made it to our final destination. We separate it into medical and personal, and proceed to the exit.

Walking into a wall of humid air, we find a pleasant group of family and friends of Chau and her parents. They have worked incredibly hard on their end to facilitate our journey. There are two buses waiting. One accompanied by Dr. Trung Pham (no relation to Chau et al.) – the Medical Director of the hospital where our medical symposium will be held in Long Xuyen. The other is our group’s bus with a driver who will be transporting us around Vietnam throughout the next couple of weeks. Part of this group is the gracious Thanh Nguyen, long time friend of Thu Pham and retired teacher. Thanh leads the Retired Teacher’s Association of An Giang, which is the direct lead of CHKV in Vietnam. Thanh and others oversee the application process for families of children hoping for sponsorship, organize the bicycle donation, and provide administration to the charity here in Vietnam. There has been an overwhelming amount of work done on this side to help our mission come to this country. We are very grateful for these contributions.

After the luggage has been loaded, our group of jet-lagged teammates piles onto the bus. It is 2:00 a.m. in Ho Chi Minh City. It is 11:00 a.m. in Winnipeg – 1 day. We have been traveling for 30 hours. It’s time for bed.

We make our way to our first hotel to check in for the night. The trip was perfection up to this point, so what would an international journey be without a medium-sized debacle? There had been some confusion about our arrival date at the hotel. They were quite surprised to see us and the inn was full, as they say. After some expert problem solving, we head back to the bus and trek onwards to an alternate destination. No one cried, not even the babies.

In bed by 3:00 a.m. A photo finish indeed.

No telling what fun tomorrow will bring.




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You’ve Got Mail

mail

I almost didn’t come on this trip…

Interesting that I find myself on the cusp of the long journey to Vietnam. It’s hard to believe that the day is upon me. As I begin to gather my things and prepare for my time away from home, I find myself reflecting on how it came to be that I arrived here.

My 2016 began with an incredible bang that I had long planned for: An adventurous visit to Whistler-Blackcomb for snowboarding and then virtually straight out to the sunny beaches of Mexico for the wedding of good friends. Even before January arrived, I was already prepared for the fun and excessiveness that awaited me. I had planned it for months. It was going to be about my own personal enjoyment and me. I looked forward to it.

In July, I received an invitation to join a medical mission for a charity named Canadians Helping Kids in Vietnam (CHKV). They would be traveling to the country in February for just slightly shy of three weeks. The list of team members was both familiar and impressive, many of them colleagues I have practiced alongside in the emergency rooms of Winnipeg. The goals of the trip were diverse, but most energy focused on providing a robust educational symposium for the physicians and nurses at the hospital in Long Xuyen.

I recall looking at the email with a knot in my stomach. At first I was wondering how I could afford such a journey since the organization is grassroots with all members finding their own way financially in order to ensure that other proceeds from fundraising are directed towards maximizing assistance to the country. The more I thought about it, the more it became clear that there were other protests plaguing my mind, reactions that were somehow darker. I had hoped to go on two trips to the mountains this year. I didn’t think I’d be able to do that if I went to Vietnam. Something would have to go. I was disappointed that I would need to make a concession in order to entertain this opportunity. I don’t like the feeling of sacrifice.

I felt suddenly ashamed of this thought…

The longer I contemplated my decision, the more thoughtful I became. I realized how embarrassed I was about my internal reaction to this trip. How could I have become so selfish that I would pass up an opportunity to help others so that I could go on yet another lavish vacation?

Syrian Refugee Crisis

I started to think about the world that we live in. I am an avid consumer of news media and follow international affairs closely. I am routinely discouraged, saddened, and concerned at the state of humanity. I sit in the comfort of my home while I listen to the World at Six on CBC radio and I think about how the world should be a better place than it is.

And so here I find myself in front of this email inviting me to participate in a medical mission with feelings of indecisiveness. An opportunity to do something different and meaningful lay before me. Yet I am paralyzed.

I am out of my comfort zone.

How easy it is to sit back and expect that the world be a different place. What a convenient concept for a person from a first world country; this notion that I want the world to be better yet should come at no personal cost to me in particular. In a world ravaged by inequality, we all play a role whether we are able to recognize it or not. There is white that answers black.  Day and night. A yin and a yang. There is privilege and there is disadvantage. One does not exist without the other. These are not mutually exclusive concepts. Somewhere along the line my advantage translates into someone else’s deprivation, because my life is not in isolation from others. This is the concept that has evaded my first world mind. I have led myself astray because at some point in time I became blind to my own privilege. My sense of entitlement to a life of good fortune has become insidious despite my lip service to the notion that it is an unbecoming way to view my place in the world.

World Scales

I started to wonder what the world would be like if entitlement and privilege translated into a profound need to create balance…

Perhaps the remedy to inequality is grand gestures to even the scales. And if this is the case, it is incumbent on me to feel a responsibility to do so.

So I made a choice. I chose to be a different person than the one who initially opened the email.

I said yes.

As I sent my response I could feel myself stepping outside of my own safe boundaries, understanding that I had agreed to embark on a journey that has the capacity to change me as a person. I started to reflect on trips from years past that had me step outside these walls and challenge myself to grow in uncomfortable ways. As scared and uncertain as I have been in the past to do this, I have always found that it is infinitely more valuable than traveling my familiar roads of comfort.

Maybe in life, opportunities that you need the most are the ones that appear out of the blue in your inbox when you least expect it.

This article originally posted at http://chkv2016.blogspot.ca/2016/02/youve-got-mail.html